Rawl Bolt Size Chart

Jumat, 12 Maret 2021

Projecting Bolt - Heavy Duty Fixing - Masonry Wall Bolt

How do we choose the right size of wall (rawl) plugs

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Rawl Bolt Drill Size Chart - Best Picture Of Chart

Hilti presenter broadcaster bolt size chart hamil easyfix shield telecaster bolt type m8 x 2 vine ts rawlplug roofing nails s Inexpensive Bolt ExtractorDrill Hole Size For Anchor Bolts A Pictures Of 2018Rawlplug EnglishHole Size For M8 Rawl Bolt A Pictures Of 2018Construction Fasteners Roofing Nails S Staples Teks Sealing Washers Stainless Steel Landscape Spikes And… log on edit More » Roofing nails s drill hole size for presenter broadcaster bolts a hole size for m8 telecaster bolt a rawlplug english 6pc m8 x 75mm take forward bolts amtech

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Projecting Bolt - Heavy Duty Fixing - Masonry Wall Bolt

Projecting Bolt - Heavy Duty Fixing - Masonry Wall Bolt

R-RBL Rawlbolt - Rawlplug.com

R-RBL Rawlbolt. R-OCR-55/63 Zinc flake self-drilling screws going on to 6mm; R-ONR-55/63 Zinc flake self drilling screws for composite panels In order to choose the right telecaster for a particular application, there are several key aspects to be considered: environmental conditions, base material, telecaster spacing and edge distances, load bearing capacity, loading type, quality data.

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Specification Data - Tooled-Up.com

Specification Data RAWLBOLT® Shield presenter broadcaster floating free Bolt act out Data SIZE CONCRETE, fck,cube = 30N/mm2 (C20/25) Brickwork = 20.5 N/mm2 CHARACTERISTIC RESISTANCE (kN) DESIGN RESISTANCE (Factored) (kN) RECOMMENDED LOAD (Unfactored) (kN) %PDF-1.4%âãÏÓ 5 0 obj>>>endobj33 0 obj>/Font>>>/Fields[]>>endobj41 0 obj>stream 2020-06-12T17:52:52+01:00 2020-06-12T17:52:52+01:00 2020-06-12T17:52:52+01:00 application/pdf uuid:29e3d8ff-4047-44f3-beb1-95313267eae7 uuid:cae13a73-8c46-4063-a490-80b4f057003f endstreamendobj1 0 obj>endobj26 0 obj>/ExtGState>/Font>/ProcSet[/PDF/Text]>>/Rotate 0/TrimBox[0.0 0.0 595.276 841.89]/Type/Page>>endobj40 0 obj>stream H‰´—ooÜ¸Æ¿_p+ó?Å}áØn.‡dsµ·W ñánì^.qÜsRäëw(Š¹^î’ÒlIÍ3Ïh4üíŸˆ ?qÚi®0–I‰;¡‰Ö‚¢í:»¸ÁhûÕìë¨Tð[ô}Ý~Ag/aå?Ãz@‚À:ƒuôÙ_¯|ÀöÏ=ú;z± ÃÁ‹CLœ³ùÍä²¹G„Û¼ø˜‡¬XÇ©hó€Þ57ÿ½Û~¼ÅLmß·¼ùöññº®Þ·¿n~BWôç^kŒvsŒ±6ÖfY‚ÍÖ”½p¶‚Ü5øãsg¢#L›ûu»Íy+XóÏ×/Þ¾nû¾ÙYËá>‰ú²’=ÜÖûÛš[*d»ùrÅþó=Ñ¸S=V;2èæ÷wŸ? ó–5_¶¿?>¡×-áÍãã×;ô¢]ÁÕçoèç–Šæî©]1ÜÜ·„5Oféáý—m+›»Ý¢‚)G×3¿5qÕ8ëˆ†§h%z(ÔÓêE'É´ÊzÝI½Aí2W¢£|ZWªÓ"Xw·c(ŠYÖyTÚUFáÉ*é—IêicÕQ"üºì;ÌÈ´>F=±ÉAn½ qm— Ð84¹îäÝúhÝ/KÞ)\vÉ¹e—œ_·uJÒs7ïˆbaòãºOÎoðé'wx)o!µÁ›7xÓŽÑ1^¥mŒël$wx)o#µÁÛ7$mpM:ªIÒ†[OÛHïp6’ÎFrƒ³á6d§¥ùÝÃ7¼Éâê~zËz©õÓkâÖLA”§e‡A6½FîvI‡ðÏÒöÜ`*ž‘êCÂmH‡`¬ë÷ÔÎG×ÓRMä#¸éXt\²á6$C$Ô˜4øhZéUmÓ4)µö×&%¬Í>%Ÿê¦³™à·Mi9)J ~‘ÖÊ©ÖõYõŽŸCâ¸qâ9N'çÎ)Î].ÂuæJ¸rîî÷wšGä xR^¯‡÷[ÞoÆœchžgÞ`>bþ‰ù$á»ñ¥ü*~ÿ ÿ:ÿ¥…EŒ…ÒbÅ~‹ËÏ,m,£-•–Ý–,¯Y¾´Â¬â*6X[Ý±F=3ë·YŸ±~dÃ³ ·‘ÛtÛ´¹iÛzÚfÙ6Û~`ÁvÖÎÞ.ÑNg·Åî”Ý#¾´…ý€ý§ö¸‘j‡‡ÏþŠ™c1X6„Æfm“Ž;'_9 œr:œ8Ýq¦:‹ËœœO:Ï¸8¸¤¹´¸ìu¹éJq»–»nv=ëúÌMà–ï¶ÊmÜí¾ÀR 4 ön»3Ü£ÜkÜGÝ¯z=Ä•[=¾ô„=ƒBº0FX'Ü+œòáû¤útøŒûG”,êçïé/÷ñ¿ÀHh8ðm W 2p[àŸƒ¸AiA«‚Ný#8$X¼?øAˆKHIÈ“ê™ªO=–§%§mL»½Ðu¡váx:H—¦oL¿“!È¨ÉøC&13#s$ó/Y¢¬–¬³ÙÜìâì=ÙOsbsúrnåºçsOæ1óŠòvç=ËËïÏŸ\ä»hÙ¢óÖê‚#…¤Â¼Â…³‹ãoZTÔUt‰`IÃ’sK—V-ý¤˜Y,+>TB(É/ÙSòƒ,]6*›-•–¾W:#—È7Ë*¢ŠÊe¿ò^YDYÙU„j£êAyTù`ù#µD=¬þ¶"©bÅ³ÊôÊ+¬Ê¯: !kJ4Gµm¥ötµuCõ%—®K7YV³©fFŸ¢ßYÕ.©=bàá?SŒîÆ•Æ©ºÈº‘ºçõyõ‡ØÚ†žkï5%4ý¦m–7Ÿlqlio™Z³lG+ÔZÚz²Í¹³mzyâò]íÔöÊö?uøuôw|¿"Å±N»ÎåwW&®ÜÛeÖ¥ïº±*|ÕöÕèjõê‰5k¶¬yÝèþ¢Ç¯g°ç‡^yïkEk‡Öþ¸®lÝD_pß¶õÄõÚõ×7DmØÕÏîoê¿»1mãál DIY land house expand ForumEg. 8mm Bolt has a 14mm shield. So use a 14mm authentic tangible drill. Two: gate this blogpost for a list of all the required Rawlbolt drill sizes. Industrial Supply News Notes: 1. Make clear you drill the substrate the correct length, the shield should fit from the collar to the bottom nut. If you drill the hole to sudden the shield will glamor out.

RAWLBOLT SHIELD presenter broadcaster directionless BOLT

3. Remove bolt and washer. enlarge shield and place fixture beyond the hole. 4. supplement bolt later than washer through the fixture and tighten to the recommended torque. Installation RAWLBOLT® Shield telecaster aimless Bolt play a role Data SIZE CONCRETE, fck,cube = 30N/mm2 (C20/25) Brickwork = 20.5 N/mm2 CHARACTERISTIC RESISTANCE (kN) DESIGN RESISTANCE %PDF-1.6%âãÏÓ 43 0 obj>endobj xref43 690000000016 00000 n 0000002329 00000 n 0000002426 00000 n 0000002468 00000 n 0000002593 00000 n 0000003240 00000 n 0000003315 00000 n 0000003575 00000 n 0000006796 00000 n 0000007170 00000 n 0000007528 00000 n 0000007952 00000 n 0000013409 00000 n 0000013963 00000 n 0000014340 00000 n 0000014850 00000 n 0000020611 00000 n 0000021233 00000 n 0000021643 00000 n 0000021979 00000 n 0000026724 00000 n 0000027191 00000 n 0000027556 00000 n 0000027630 00000 n 0000027706 00000 n 0000027783 00000 n 0000028527 00000 n 0000028579 00000 n 0000028615 00000 n 0000029476 00000 n 0000030215 00000 n 0000031246 00000 n 0000034983 00000 n 0000036597 00000 n 0000038091 00000 n 0000038478 00000 n 0000038808 00000 n 0000041537 00000 n 0000041742 00000 n 0000042116 00000 n 0000042589 00000 n 0000046833 00000 n 0000047175 00000 n 0000047926 00000 n 0000048572 00000 n 0000051311 00000 n 0000056594 00000 n 0000059876 00000 n 0000060180 00000 n 0000060380 00000 n 0000060691 00000 n 0000060760 00000 n 0000061142 00000 n 0000061450 00000 n 0000064648 00000 n 0000064855 00000 n 0000064908 00000 n 0000065392 00000 n 0000065906 00000 n 0000068417 00000 n 0000068713 00000 n 0000071339 00000 n 0000074032 00000 n 0000074069 00000 n 0000075025 00000 n 0000075455 00000 n 0000078247 00000 n 0000080280 00000 n 0000001676 00000 n trailer]/Prev 206597>>startxref0%%EOF 111 0 obj>stream hÞb```b``g`c`0¶`d@ A ;ÇÆ‹-÷Yù00¬ÈW¸lWñ¸ÀœÜÖ#–0‘ñ4—€¤Q«÷V%›“…‹NNåSJY)¸ÜÄ£“ñÍMÃ„«‹¯÷ÝåË˜(ÄùT6>á˜dêÖlæa:ß*Û¨Õµ€——6àÔrÉ¼¨èÓð«sâ×ž›É Q;«AdL6»tLƒûaS*×tƒN.æWŒj^¥ÊN‹‹;;YŒ7Ùu¢\2HŠ÷A Ò;:ÂBJ`ll–––Ñ¤Ì -fiièºá@II,‰l"PŸ„††a‘ct …š ”C‰T Óê> íÄA`*¼L'fðãc³hõÐplY™ÑØ´Jvµ^§†ÞAÉÙ‡&1%ˆ0,‰h``8çZggn5cÅ6ÇxN£…ŽA¢·Ps:-,´øÅ¿SÚ˜&(%(r]p‘ØÂµ£Áúäj¥ö)‡Ï°iF´Ÿ5“`fz$¾a'ëŸþ~îéJÕNs6„£¥6%¦g«€4ˆÃ®ÂÀ òfªk[ýÀ¥â%ÏÀô0:¬þpy-få|ˆVFN€ ·ÃŸendstreamendobj44 0 obj>endobj45 0 obj>endobj46 0 obj>/Font>>>/Fields[]>>endobj47 0 obj>/ExtGState>/Font>/ProcSet[/PDF/Text/ImageB/ImageC]/XObject>>>/Rotate 0/Thumb 34 0 R/TrimBox[25.5118 25.5118 619.764 866.378]/Type/Page>>endobj48 0 obj>endobj49 0 obj>endobj50 0 obj>stream hÞ¤VPWön”¾3ø˜5»¶ÝÚDÝ°kðF6‰A^2ÂðD^Ž 0Â ÃðÄd£‰€¼™A@ž"à€ ¼AD# ylðW“ÍnÅT’Ý_NÏÞ±ê×“Ú?·jÿØê®êº÷žóÕ¹ß¹ß××Š°^FXYYmpß/=¸Ïs‹wF²2-ÝÙÙÙ-)Ñ#ÈAvB•d XÏ3«Öá7ñõ¤Ã¿ÒÉï~\ÒWÊÖ¯ÎýµeÝÎ$¬„‡xÅ†x 6Äï¬ˆß[Ö„Iˆb•5±‘ 6„=Al±" âm+Â— ü " ‚ ¢Š š +ñ«Äv›÷ˆ}„‡•·Õk9IìŠ&¬7"œh±b…ùÖeNË|—ý´

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Rawlplug - English

Features and benefits. The without help and no-one else original Rawlbolt afterward single-piece cold-formed eyebolt for maximum durability ; Three-pieces expanding sleeve of maximum further provides optimal load and safety of use in any substrate World's most popular all-purpose expanding shield telecaster - eye bolt versionSizeProduct CodeAnchorDiameterExternal diameterLengthddnomL[mm][mm][mm]M6R-RBL-06EW61273M8R-RBL-08EW81487M10R-RBL-10EW1016108M12R-RBL-12EW1220130SizeM6M8M10M12Thread diameterd[mm]681012Hole diameter in substrated0[mm]12141620Min. installation depthhnom[mm]45506080Min. hole intensity in substrateh0[mm]50556585Wrench sizeSw[mm]10131719SOLID SUBSTRATESInstallation torqueTinst[Nm]6.5152750Min. substrate thicknesshmin[mm]100100100100Min. spacingsmin[mm]35405060Min. edge distancecmin[mm]53607590CERAMIC AND HOLLOW SUBSTRATESInstallation torqueTinst[Nm]35810Min. spacingsmin[mm]100100100100Min. edge distancecmin[mm]100100100100SizeM6M10M12Nominal ultimate tensile strength - tensionfuk[N/mm2]300300300Nominal consent strength - tensionfyk[N/mm2]180180180Cross sectional area - tensionAs[mm2]20.15884.3Elastic section modulusWel[mm3]21.2198.17169.65Characteristic bending resistanceM0Rk,s[Nm]12.7258.9101.79Design bending resistanceM[Nm]10.1847.1281.43Performance data for single presenter broadcaster without assume of edge disaffect and spacing - ETAG 001SizeM6M8M10M12CHARACTERISTIC LOADTENSION LOAD NRkHollow core slab min. C20/25Wall thicknessMaterial class23C30/37[kN]4.005.00--C35/45[kN]4.506.00--C45/55[kN]5.006.50--C50/60[kN]5.507.00--35C30/37[kN]6.5011.0016.00-C35/45[kN]6.5012.0017.00-C45/55[kN]6.5013.0019.00-C50/60[kN]6.5013.0019.00-40C30/37[kN]6.5013.0019.0022.00C35/45[kN]6.5013.0019.0022.00C45/55[kN]6.5013.0019.0022.00C50/60[kN]6.5013.0019.0022.0050C20/25[kN]6.508.508.508.50Beam-and-block floor (eg.Terriva 4.0/2), min. 25mm wall thickness[kN]1.202.00--Lightweight authentic tangible LAC class 5[kN]5.505.505.505.50Solid clay brick class 20[kN]6.006.006.006.00Silicate hollow block class 15[kN]1.50---SHEAR LOAD VRkHollow core slab min. C20/25Wall thicknessMaterial class23C30/37[kN]4.004.50--C35/45[kN]2.004.50--C45/55[kN]2.004.50--C50/60[kN]2.004.50--35C30/37[kN]5.009.0014.00-C35/45[kN]5.009.0014.00-C45/55[kN]5.009.0014.00-C50/60[kN]5.009.0014.00-40C30/37[kN]5.009.0014.0020.00C35/45[kN]5.009.0014.0020.00C45/55[kN]5.009.0014.0020.00C50/60[kN]5.009.0014.0020.0050C20/25[kN]5.008.508.508.50Beam-and-block floor (eg.Terriva 4.0/2), min. 25mm wall thickness[kN]1.202.00--Lightweight authentic tangible LAC class 5[kN]5.005.505.505.50Solid clay brick class 20[kN]5.006.006.006.00Silicate hollow block class 15[kN]1.50---DESIGN LOADTENSION LOAD NRdHollow core slab min. C20/25Wall thicknessMaterial class23C30/37[kN]2.202.80--C35/45[kN]2.503.30--C45/55[kN]2.803.60--C50/60[kN]3.103.90--35C30/37[kN]3.606.108.90-C35/45[kN]3.606.709.40-C45/55[kN]3.607.2010.60-C50/60[kN]3.607.2010.60-40C30/37[kN]3.607.2010.6012.20C35/45[kN]3.607.2010.6012.20C45/55[kN]3.607.2010.6012.20C50/60[kN]3.607.2010.6012.2050C20/25[kN]3.604.704.704.70Beam-and-block floor (eg.Terriva 4.0/2), min. 25mm wall thickness[kN]0.701.10--Lightweight real LAC class 5[kN]2.002.202.202.20[English]: Cegła ceramiczna pełna 20MPa[kN]2.002.402.402.40Silicate hollow block class 15[kN]0.60---SHEAR LOAD VRdHollow core slab min. C20/25Wall thicknessMaterial class23C30/37[kN]3.203.60--C35/45[kN]1.603.60--C45/55[kN]1.603.60--C50/60[kN]1.603.60--35C30/37[kN]4.007.2011.20-C35/45[kN]4.007.2011.20-C45/55[kN]4.007.2011.20-C50/60[kN]4.007.2011.20-40C30/37[kN]4.007.2011.2016.00C35/45[kN]4.007.2011.2016.00C45/55[kN]4.007.2011.2016.00C50/60[kN]4.007.2011.2016.0050C20/25[kN]4.006.806.806.80Beam-and-block floor (eg.Terriva 4.0/2), min. 25mm wall thickness[kN]1.001.60--Lightweight definite LAC class 5[kN]4.004.404.404.40[English]: Cegła ceramiczna pełna 20MPa[kN]4.004.804.804.80Silicate hollow block class 15[kN]1.20---RECOMMENDED LOADTENSION LOAD NrecHollow core slab min. C20/25Wall thicknessMaterial class23C30/37[kN]1.602.00--C35/45[kN]1.802.40--C45/55[kN]2.002.60--C50/60[kN]2.202.80--35C30/37[kN]2.604.406.30-C35/45[kN]2.604.806.70-C45/55[kN]2.605.207.50-C50/60[kN]2.605.207.50-40C30/37[kN]2.605.207.508.70C35/45[kN]2.605.207.508.70C45/55[kN]2.605.207.508.70C50/60[kN]2.602.507.508.7050C20/25[kN]2.603.403.403.40Beam-and-block floor (eg.Terriva 4.0/2), min. 25mm wall thickness[kN]0.500.80--Lightweight real LAC class 5[kN]1.401.601.601.60[English]: Cegła ceramiczna pełna 20MPa[kN]1.401.701.701.70Silicate hollow block class 15[kN]0.40---SHEAR LOAD VrecHollow core slab min. C20/25Wall thicknessMaterial class23C30/37[kN]2.302.60--C35/45[kN]1.102.60--C45/55[kN]1.102.60--C50/60[kN]1.102.60--35C30/37[kN]2.905.108.00-C35/45[kN]2.905.108.00-C45/55[kN]2.905.108.00-C50/60[kN]2.905.108.00-40C30/37[kN]2.905.108.0011.40C35/45[kN]2.905.108.0011.40C45/55[kN]2.905.108.0011.40C50/60[kN]2.905.108.0011.4050C20/25[kN]2.904.904.904.90Beam-and-block floor (eg.Terriva 4.0/2), min. 25mm wall thickness[kN]0.701.10--Lightweight concrete LAC class 5[kN]2.903.103.103.10[English]: Cegła ceramiczna pełna 20MPa[kN]2.903.403.403.40Silicate hollow block class 15[kN]0.90---SizeProduct CodeAnchorQuantity [pcs]Weight [kg]Bar CodesDiameter [mm]Length [mm]BoxOuterPalletBoxOuterPalletM6R-RBL-06EW67325400160000.9214.7617.25906675283128M8R-RBL-08EW8872520080001.6112.8543.65906675283142M10R-RBL-10EW10108252540002.92.9492.45906675283166M12R-RBL-12EW12130252530005.25.2652.85906675283180Rawlplug uses cookies to provide you afterward an optimised experience approaching this website. 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Screw sizes explained: pilot, clearance, metric, wall plugs-

There is a strict relationship in the company of the drill size and the rawl plug size next zero adjustment. A brown 7mm plug needs a 7mm hole for example. However the size or gauge of screw the plug takes is flexible, according to the manufacturers. A brown plug might agree to anything from 8 to 12 gauge screws (4mm, 5mm, 5.5mm) for example. Which one to choose?I’ve explained this screw data in an easy to acknowledge allow table because I judge regard as being manufacturers recommendations are often vague and general, I mean; why not be specific? I admit there’s a ‘range’ but why not provide us the ‘ideal’ measurement, because mostly we have a choice?

The table below shows you:Righty-ho, lets jump right in…. (you can download a free PDF of this table at the bottom)(click to download and print the screws explained table as a PDF to child support child maintenance for reference)(I got a few emails approximately this….. :-))If you’re not determined what all these holes do; here’s a brief explanation….The pilot hole recommendations in the chart are typical for softwoods. Hardwoods may without difficulty need a slightly larger pilot hole. If the screw starts to do too tight, later it’s advisable to encourage out and re-drill a larger pilot hole rather than risk breaking a screw (you’ll be having a utterly bad day if you snap a screw…..).

In fact, if any screw starts to get utterly tight, it’s best to subside and have a rethink in the future you deferment the screw or burst the material. Screws should be tight, but not crazy, “sweating to pull off them in” tight! Simply hit reverse and take it out.

Then you’ll habit to judge whether to use a smaller gauge screw or drill a larger pilot hole if it’s in wood. In masonry you always have the option to re-drill the hole one size better (drilling through the existing wall plug) and use a bigger plug, red occurring to brown for example.

Incidentally, gauge relates to the thickness of a screw’s shank or body and single-handedly relates to imperial sized screws. Metric screws are clearly understandably measured and the thickness is given in millimeters. The metric screw equivalent size is approximate, but since we’re heading that way, we infatuation to learn and reach used to them!

By coincidence, the size of an imperial screw head afterward approximately in the region of equates to the gauge. For example an 8-gauge screw has an 8mm wide head…..handy huh?How deep does a wall plug craving to be? I talked very nearly this a lot in relation to different post, here’s the link: How to Properly Use Wall PlugsParting note approximately wall plugs: Be aware that not everyone follows the colour ‘rules’, one leading brands plugs are all grey for example, and others are, well; they can be any colour sedated the sun (as the above photo of my box shows). Blue wall plugs are substitute example, they can be either 8mm or 10mm, go figure! If in doubt always play a part the plug at the thicker decline to make certain positive it’s right for the size hole you have drilled.

Hope that helps you sort out your screw dilemmas. tone free to send this to anyone you know who needs their ‘screws explained’ lol! And don’t forget to let me know how you do on. Incidentally if you want to encourage urge on this site, grab your… screws etc. from ebay… Ta muchly!

Stay wellIanAll round reachable bloke, humanitarian, and heated scribbler.Moved as regards a bit, from one side of the planet to the other, but now fixed unventilated to the beach in Norway.Great table, but an supplementary secondary column listing capture masonary bit size would be good.Hey Ken, Thanks for the comment. I included the hole size in relation to last column, in brackets… Best of luck taking into consideration your projects! IanHi Ian. I’m one of those people who have to have every single thing explained (!) Am I right that if I drill a 6mm hole into a brick wall, use a red plug and after that an 8g screw 2 and a half inches long I have got the right idea?

Hey Mairin, Sorry for the delay, been enthusiastic artifice stirring in the mountains and not been checking in agreed often. Yes, you’re roughly more or less right 🙂 Just make Definite you tap the red plug into the wall a little so that the decline of the screw ends going on a few mm’s bearing in mind the end of the red plug, following it’s fully tight. suitable luck!

Thanks so much Ian. Yes I wise saying you accomplish that later the screw, so that was complementary mystery helpfully explained. 🙂This is an excellent and useful article on the subject of with reference to screw fixings. I used it this morning to perform supplementary member of the team here at Spur Shelving the difference between alternative fixing sizes and which plugs to use. I explained how using a substantial fixing almost flimsy twin slot uprights will not exploit as the countersink is not deep sufficient but in relation to concrete Spur which we make in Devon England will agree to the larger screw size and yet nevertheless inherit the bracket to fit. I guess we got the design right in 1952 so why alter it. avow as regards the best it will be branded Spur UK.

2 Questions: 1) I have a bunch of plugs (all colors) and a bunch of screws. Now, how pull off I know which plugs to use taking into consideration which screws? 2) I habit to hang a heavy mirror a propos a lath and plaster wall. accomplish I use plugs + screws? Is there a tip around drilling into plaster walls? Many thanks.

So sorry Jan, Been without internet in Croatia for ages and have been travelling back. Your broadcast fell through the gaps in the internet.Probably too late now but to answer, I wouldn’t use plugs and screws approximately lath and plaster unless it’s a entirely vivacious item.A close mirror really needs to go into the studs of the wall. You can judge regard as being them taking into account bearing in mind a big magnet or a wall/metal detector etc. to declare the nails holding the lath to the studs. like you have the studs located you can go ahead and use tolerable wood screws. Use a thick gauge though and drill a pilot hole appx half the screws diameter of the big screw might get high and dry half showing off in.

In a pinch you can use a plasterboard fixing which opens out later the plaster. Use one designed for double boards, i.e. 20mm+ in thickness.Let me know if you reach stuck and sorry again for the tardy reply. IanI think the chap talking about STAR screws needs to have the difference between Phillips head and Posidrive heads, how to recognise them and which screwdriver to use. A Phillips screw merely has a fuming approaching the head and a phillips driver is essentially the same – just ensure that your phllips is the true number. A Pozi screw has a little whisker spread around amid each quadrant of the gnashing your teeth furious in the screw head and the driver for it has a enraged later a little fillet in each quadrant of the infuriated If you put the phillips in a pozi or vice versa you will quality that it does not SEAT firmly/cleanly whereas the precise exact driver fits the correct screw snugly. Again, subsequent to the phillips Pozi has several size numbers

For both phillips and pozi the MAJORITY of average sized screws would use either a PH2 or a PZ2 driver head.True Erik. Put it this way, I lonesome have broadcast for one steadfast screwdriver in my pocket and that’s always going to be a PZ2. Although, it would be closely followed by a T20 star these days. Star aim is increasingly common, but I don’t see the Pozzies disappearing anytime soon. Thanks for dropping in, dream desire you found something useful! acclaim Ian

Why (M) sizes in machine bolts, equivalent in mms?Hi Bernard, I’m not quite harmony your question, sorry! This post talks not quite wood screws… Let me know if you have questions… Ianwhat if you are bothersome to come by a matching screw?I was exasperating to get a drama for an Ikea fastener, and I just needed a screw that matched the diameter and length so it would bite into the wood at the predrilled hole.

The fastener would slant into a #12 hole as regards the plastic measuring card at HomeDepot, so that’s what I bought. Is that the gauge of that screw–the shank only?I ask because The estate Depot guy was dropping the screw into a hole in which the threads would fit, and I thought maybe I was be active it wrong.Also–should pilot holes be drill a little bit smaller than the shank (for greater pressure), or exactly the same size?Hiya, Well, a #12 hole is 4.8mm wide I believe. If the hole you have is 4.8mm (and that is in effect your pilot hole) later you’re going to habit a screw the adjacent size up. To be honest, you might be more familiar later sizes in the US (I’m in Europe…)than me! a propos the pilot hole, yes you can go a fraction smaller than the shank size in most cases, but in thin particle or chip board I’d be careful. truthful size along with works in most cases. It truly is a charge by case/ events and error (or experience of course!) because each type of wood and each type of screw behaves differently. A fat screw in a hard wood is different to a skinny screw in a soft wood for example. I wrote this make known yesterday actually! click… Metric wood screws explained Let me have more details or a even a pic two two, and I’ll agree to a appearance manner for you 🙂 Ian

I have 2 inch screws to hang a shelf and was wondering what size of raw plug to use for them any put up to would be appreciatedHi John, Depends regarding so many things! (sorry). Assuming the wall is masonry (brick, block etc.), after that a red 6mm plug is fine. If the screw is a bit fat, i.e. 10g or 5mm etc. after that go taking place in the works to a brown 7mm plug.

If the wall is plasterboards let me know and I’ll go through that. clapping cheering and delightful luck! IanWould be nice if 7mm glass bit drills were more easy to get to at a friendly price .these are extraordinary at drilling accurate holes for masonry I normally use a 6 mm drill and the finish when 7mm cobalt drill for brown plugs for 5mm screws

They certainly leave a no question clean and expertly sized hole! For years I used to use a 5.5mm SDS bit for my red 6mm plugs because when you noted, a 6mm SDS bangin’ going on for in a brick and especially a block leaves a hole slightly oversized. Thanks for stopping by Dave. Ian

Most helpful. Thank you..You’re most up to standard Mr Morad, motivation your project went well? Thanks for making the period times to state thanks, appreciate that 🙂 IanDear Ian, your site is brilliant! I’ve got a glass writing board to fix and they’ve provided white rawl plugs which publicize U8 concerning them. Can you advise whether i just use one drill bit, and which size? I think I don’t infatuation pilot holes etc subsequently the rawl plug. Thank you! Judith

Hi Judith!Best thing to get is perform the diameter of the plug at the culmination I think. White usually means a generic brand. If it events on the subject of 8mm, subsequently next you were right the U8 probably refers to using an 8mm drill bit. And yes, no pilot holes, that’s just if you’re going into wood.

I’m assuming your wall is masonry? If you’re going into drywall etc. then you’ll infatuation some special drywall fixings which move ahead out in the manner of the drywall (let me know). approbation and let me know how you accomplish on. Ian

Hi Ian, I infatuation to hang a fairly large tv. The bracket I’ve brought is supplied similar to and has fixing holes that comfortably fit M6 size screws/bolts. I will be fixing into a chimney breast masonry wall, that is taking into consideration covered by plaster board. However the cavity amongst the plaster and breast is a extremity height that requires the M6 bolts to be approximately 150mm long to achieve a satisfactory good enough presenter broadcaster into the brick and protrude to assent a attach fasten concerning the bracket. I have a pleasant quality stud detector and have normal that there are no frame struts gratifying to accommodate the requirement. I can get your hands on the 150mm M6 bolts, but what size drill bit would you use/and what rawl plugs would you use? Many thanks Geoff

Hi Geoff! Little concerned nearly the gap Geoff. A 6mm bolt will flex and modify beside allowing the bracket to sag, plus you’ll not be dexterous to tighten the bolts happening onto just plasterboard. What exactly is the gap? Normally for unventilated stuff afterward a TV bracket you would be looking at creating a solid substrate to screw support back up onto. How you realize that depends vis-Ð°-vis the gap and the materials. Sometimes roughly ‘dot-and-dab’ walls, this can want biting out a square and re-bedding a extra piece in the manner of a full encouragement sponsorship of adhesive. I saying proverb a guy pull off one subsequently by drilling a few 25mm (1″) holes through the plasterboard, packing in some fibreglass (at the bottom, to subside the adhesive falling down) and subsequently next pushing lots of drywall adhesive into the large holes until the area regarding the holes filled going on when adhesive. bearing in mind it had set, he remarked out the holes and drilled into the brickwork as normal. The adhesive allowed him to in fact in point of fact draw magnetism happening the bolts and not squash the drywall. But there are lots of extra ways…

Let me know the gap and we can talk again (it sounds gone there are some timber battens or framing over the bricks to receive put up with the plasterboard?). ovation IanI’ve have a suffering next creating a small hole in a solid brick wall. What would be the smallest you could create? It was for a towel rail and the fittings supplied just seem to be too small. Both have already failed. accomplish I addition the size of the wall plug? I’d behind to use the same holes. Is there a freshening re the types of ‘star’ screwdriver and matching them taking into consideration the precise exact screw. I never know what I have past the are out of the packet. unusual topic I guess……..

Hey Mike, For Definite the fitting supplied go straight into the bin in most cases regarding my jobs! To be fair, the manufacturers don’t know what you’re fixing into and they seem to implement hermetically sealed concrete!

In brick though, the plug size isn’t critical. I’d go for a 6mm red plug and an 8g screw at least 2 and a half inches long. You could go even bigger and go for 7mm brown plugs and a 10g screw of the same length. These are the two most common sized plugs used in the UK.

The absolute key factor is getting deep acceptable into the brick for the plug to get its job. If the plug is flush taking into account bearing in mind the surface of the plaster, it’s going to glamor out. way in taking place in the works a little more here…

Re the star drive, I’m not sure what you’re asking! do in be adjacent to lie alongside and I’ll back if I can. commendation IanHi Ian, I have 10x50mm coach screws. What rawl plug size should I use? And What drill bit size? I will hang a large mirror concerning a concrete wall. Many thanks.

This is the picture of the screw I bought. Its re their website. Many Thanks!http://www.screwfix.com/p/coach-screws-10-x-50mm-10-pack/64576Hey Ven, Thanks for getting in touch. Hmm, a coach screw is essentially designed to go into wood. Unless you get hold of them as a ‘kit’ (like a basin hanging set) I think you’re going to torture yourself to decide a wall plug big passable to use roughly speaking a M10 bolt. Just how big is that mirror lol!

Usually I would use a heavy gauge regular (12g/14g x 75mm etc) screws following a large ‘penny washer’. Make determined the wire goes behind the washer and you’re enjoyable to go. If it’s a all-powerful mirror (I’ve hung some more than 3m tall etc.) later I’d use compound hanging points, they hang better and influence less too. Or you can use a hook of some kind… http://www.screwfix.com/p/smith-locke-long-robe-hook-brushed-stainless-steel-64mm/8364p or similar. If it’s really, in fact in point of fact supreme later you should look at rawlbolts (M6 or M8) as a solution.

You reference hint the wall is concrete, just concrete? In a high rise? Any plaster? Let me know. praise IanHi, Ian, Wow! That was a gruff reply. Thank you! You’re the man!I am a little bit panicky over the top taking into consideration I bought the big coach screws for my mirror, I am just frightened fearful that the mirror will decline off from the wall if I use small screws, lol. The mirror will be hanged in the dining here at home, afterward a measurements of 72” x 36” inches and according almost the box the mirror weigh 35kg. Not really that stuffy and big for the coach screws I bought,lol. There are 2 fixtures for hanging at the help of the mirror. The hook you’ve suggested will not fit for that type of fixtures attached in relation to the mirror.

I am not really distinct if the wall is total strong unquestionable concrete, most probably bricks sedated and bonding agent plaster roughly speaking the surface. The staff at ScrewFix cannot have the funds for me any suggestions, they by yourself sell products (-; previously the mirror is not in reality that heavy, will you allow me any suggestions on the subject of with reference to what size and type of screws should I use? And along with what rawl plugs size and drill bit size should I along with use? Many Thanks! Cheers! Ven

Hi Ven, sorry to be a bit slower this time! Been in Sweden all weekend and just got home. For your mirror I’d use brown 7mm diameter wall plugs and subsequently next a thick gauge screw, a 5.5mm or 12g in old-fashioned obsolete money. Length depends on the subject of with reference to the thickness of any plaster. 75mm or 3″ should be OK. I’m firing this off curt so let me know if I missed anything… approval Ian

p.s. incidentally, I think you should send me a picture of the hanging points, then I can better advise you. 🙂Hi Ian We’ve just fitted supplementary doors and lever roughly rose handles. Unfortunately the joiner decided not to use the screws supplied – don’t know why! (He didn’t use the through bolts either but that’s other substitute story) The result is the diameter of the head is slightly too wide for the countersink in the handle and the covering rose plate doesn’t screw fully home. I have spoken to the handle manufacturer and they don’t supply screws by themselves – why not?? They could forlorn inform let know me that the head diameter is 4mm and the length is 20mm. I can’t equate this to your table above. I’ve spoken to several screw suppliers and they all lack to sell me what they have in accretion but no-one has yet convinced me that what I’ll reach will have a 4mm diameter head! I motivation you can help.

Hi Brian, Highly likely it will be an engineering type, i.e. one from a range of special screws not readily to hand to us. The table I put together is just for regular wood screws.

Hmm, you reveal you just habit to attain realize the cover plate back? Would grinding a little off the pinnacle of the screw action pull off you think? It might leave the desire a little small for the screwdriver though… Alternatively, can you growth the countersink a little (without going all the artifice through!)?

A picture might help me…. 🙂 Let me know if I can help. Ian p.s. I think it is disgusting the handle manufacturer was unwilling to help, that sort of thing appalls me. p.p.s. a 4mm head is going on for a 4g screw though…

Hi Ian,I’m looking for a bit of help. I’m mounting a TV to my wall and the bracket has come once 10.5mm plugs and the corresponding screws but no note of what size masonry bit I’ll dependence obsession to make a hole to accommodate. Is it as manageable as a 10.5mm bit? It’s going on the order of a plastered brick wall. Thanks, Chris.

Hi Chris, Pretty hefty plugs! I’m 99.9% Definite it will be a 10mm hole. The plug may accomplishment a little more but it will compress slightly afterward it’s pushed/hammered into the wall. What length are the screws/plugs? Just that sometimes it’s best to sink the plugs into the wall a little (if the screws are long enough). Ideally you nonattendance the bottom of the screw and the bottom of the plug in the same place. i.e. if you’ve got a 50mm long plugs and 75mm long screws you lack to make known the plug into the wall 20mm or so. Especially as the plaster has little holding strength subsequently hanging heavy items. Let me know if you do stuck! Cheers Ian p.s. you might consider this useful….. handycrowd.com/quick-tip-using-wall-plugs-rawlplugs-in-a-plastered-wall

Great guidance – I flesh and blood in Metric land so getting a enraged reference to the ‘old’ satisfactory is always useful.I don’t use wall plugs, you never seem to have the right size. on the other hand I use chopsticks! The chopsticks in the take-out are usually made of softwood. I handily bang a chopstick into the drilled hole as far as it will go, later suspension it off and in taking into consideration the screw.

Where I conscious in Indochina we can deserted get hardwood chopsticks. They can be used in the same broadcast unaided to the lead you make subsequent to the screw and screwdriver, I crack the wood by banging a flat-blade screwdriver in to the wood to crack it so the screw has a pilot hole.

Great tip Jay! I’ve in addition to ended curtains something similar using matchsticks or cocktail sticks, just fill up the hole similar to them and snap them off flush in imitation of the surface. Job done! Happy supplementary Year to you 🙂

Hi Ian, I dependence obsession to mount a handrail just about height of a low (18 inches high) brick wall which is topped following hard (but not architectural)bricks laid in relation to edge, i.e. behind “soldiers” laid flat approximately their backs (rowlocks?) The base of each handrail publicize is a 100mm diameter steel plate next 4 x 5mm holes in each, the hand rail proclaim is 50 cm tall so will exert an amount of leverage if leaned on. My evaluate is what is the best fixing option? 1.5″ rawplugs like 5mm screws doesn’t sealed deep enough? Does anyone make brown rawlpugs 3 inches long? 8mm presenter broadcaster bolts could split the bricks? I guess I could (resin) glue in steel threaded rod and pin by the side of as soon as nuts? And I’m guessing at least a proportion of the holes will be provoked to stop taking place in the works in mortar rather than brick. Any recommendation welcome! Thanks, Andy

Hi Andy, Yes, the leverage could be considerable. Especially if someone falls or pulls roughly speaking it etc. I’m assuming it’s outside so whatever you choose obviously needs to be adequate for prolonged outdoor use.

My only comment would be to complete the fasteners as deep into the wall as you can nearly go, preferably below the pinnacle course. Don’t make miserable about the length of the brown plugs, just tap them deep into the hole until there is only 40mm (or equal to the length of the plug) of the screw/ bolt sticking out. Then the holding tapering off is beside at the bottom of the hole. Longer plugs are straightforward but these are ‘frame fixings’ and not designed to be used outdoors.

Resin is obviously a all-powerful artifice forward as it holds capably skillfully without creating stress, but it’s much more doing and the nuts don’t heavens as neat as a screw or bolt head.

I think past it subconscious ‘only’ 500mm high, I’d be tempted to do long outdoor screws, preferably when a hex head and subsequently next use regular wall plugs as deep as I could get into the masonry. Drill holes utterly slowly and on purpose (SDS etc)and blow out the dust (seems worse almost vertical holes as the bit doesn’t clear as capably skillfully as horizontal holes). Don’t make miserable too much practically hitting mortar, obviously if it’s three out of four holes maybe! As long as it’s solitary the Strange peculiar one, it should yet nevertheless sustain well. Any really bad holes you could resin fill maybe and shout from the rooftops the screw into it (seen this finished in imitation of outside uncovered ‘no-nails’ type stuff in a pinch, he left the screw a couple of turns standoffish superior and nipped it going on after 24hrs… big dodgy but what can you attain sometimes!).

See what they have at the amassing screw/length wise, stainless steel is best of course. You could even declare structural timber screws, if you can reach a wall plug big ample plenty for them. They are long, have flanged heads and designed for outside uncovered use, just a thought (Have a look at what I aspire at screwfix…).

Let me know how you accomplish on! Thanks for calling in IanHi Andy, Yes, the leverage could be considerable. Especially if someone falls or pulls in the region of it etc. I’m assuming it’s outside so whatever you pick select obviously needs to be normal for prolonged outside uncovered use.

My lonely comment would be to get the fasteners as deep into the wall as you can nearly go, preferably below the pinnacle course if you declare pronounce they are laid flat. Don’t badly affect roughly more or less the length of the brown plugs, just tap them deep into the hole until there is forlorn 40mm (or equal to the length of the plug) of the screw/ bolt sticking out. subsequently next the holding narrowing is the length of all along at the bottom of the hole. Longer plugs are to hand but these are ‘frame fixings’ and not designed to be used outdoors.

Resin is obviously a loud exaggeration focus on as it holds competently without creating stress, but it’s much more perform and the nuts don’t vent as neat as a screw or bolt head. I agree that metal expanding bolts could be too much for the brickwork in this case.

I think in the same way as it visceral ‘only’ 500mm high, I’d be tempted to do long outside uncovered screws, preferably taking into account bearing in mind a hex head and then use regular wall plugs as deep as I could complete into the masonry. Drill holes enormously definitely slowly and on purpose (SDS etc)and blow out the dust (seems worse vis-Ð°-vis vertical holes as the bit doesn’t sure as without difficulty as horizontal holes). Don’t bother too much very nearly hitting mortar, obviously if it’s three out of four holes maybe! As long as it’s lonely the odd one, it should still withhold well. Any truly bad holes you could resin fill maybe and publicize the screw into it (seen this the end in the manner of outdoor ‘no-nails’ type stuff in a pinch, he left the screw a couple of turns cold and nipped it going on after 24hrs… big dodgy but what can you get sometimes!).

See what they have at the gathering screw/length wise, stainless steel is best of course. You could even announce structural timber screws, if you can reach a wall plug big acceptable for them. They are long, have flanged heads and designed for outside uncovered use, just a thought (Have a expose at what I aspiration at screwfix…).

Let me know how you get on! Thanks for calling in IanHi IanThanks for a categorically informative article.My consider explore is what object can I make to presenter a plug cover to a wall electrical plug box just about a wall where some plastering operate discharge duty has caused the depth of the plug box to be greater than the okay M4 100mm length? At the moment I’m not determined exactly what length M4 will attain the wall box bracket, but it will probably subside stirring visceral in the region of 120 to 140mm.

Someone suggested that I cut the head of a M4 40mm and subsequently next use an electrical ferrule and partner the headless M4 40mm to a M4 100mm by crimping the two screws together inside a ferrule. accomplish you think this “cowboy” type wish might work? Or realize you perhaps have any extra suggestions? Any advice or input will be very appreciated.

Regards, AlexHi Alex, Well, what you suggested would of course work, but a better way would be to extend the box forward. You can actually get ‘socket box extensions’, but my experience finds that not many places keep them in stock. However, I have a cunning plan……

You can make your own (no, not next a cornflake box and sticky tape) but rather you can ‘convert’ a regular urge on box, preferably a deeper one like this… from Screwfix or such like.

Then what you get is drill two holes in the help of the box corresponding to the holes going on for the front. after that using a mini grinder fitted gone a 1mm caustic disk, carefully cut out the majority of the put up to of the box, making Definite you leave the share similar to the holes you just drilled. I leave practically 5mm on the pinnacle and bottom too for extra supplementary rigidity.

Like this…Then you handily screw this box on the order of culmination of the existing assist box and lo, your extra screw fixing points are 50mm other deal with (or more or less depending as regards the box you chose. You can even attain this combined era (you can obtain 25, 35, and 50mm boxes or more).

What I later than very nearly this method is that it stops the electricals inborn ‘in the wall’, stuff sparks similar to in the same way as heck in the same way as you plug them in and out and I dislike to think of that physical in a open spread taking into account bearing in mind access to flammable dust etc. I conscious in Norway now and here they still use a fully contained system of plastic tube and support back up boxes, brilliant for making mods in the well along and it protects the (mostly wooden) houses from such sparks. We used to accomplish the same in the UK later metal ‘knob and tube’ happening until the 1950’s or thereabouts.

Hope that gives you an every other and I in fact in point of fact must write occurring this tip into an article (so thanks for that push!) Let me know how you complete on. applause Ian p.s. if you’re worried out the rasping edges of the cut out area, it’s easy to shield them by making a ‘grommet’ out of some thin plastic tubing cut going on for one side. I have entry right of entry to lots of ‘hospital drip’ tubing (wifes a nurse you see) which is very nearly 3 or 4mm tube, unmovable subsequently cut next to one side in the manner of some tiny scissors (also ‘single use’ from the hospital lol!). p.p.s. You don’t publicize what the plasterworks are, but if it’s dry lining in front of the socket and the plaster is going to be plasterboard why not cut out the back of a plastic ‘drywall’ box and fit that into a further other creation in the plasterboard and not use the dated backbox screws at all? taking into consideration this… p.p.p.s…… nope, that’s all 🙂

Hi Ian, thanks a lot for the knowledge share!I have a slotted square 80mm hook which I nonattendance to use for hanging a large mirror not far off from a masonry wall. I am looking for an take over wall plug and the closest I have found is a 70mm at Screwfix. Will that operate discharge duty ? Thanks.

Hiya, It depends more re the diameter or gauge of the screws shank really. You might believe to be that a large plug when a 70mm one is designed for a essentially large diameter screw (5 or 6mm plus). higher without knowing the weight of the mirror, but I’d have through that an 80mm slotted, square hook would be fine with a regular brown 7mm plug, making Definite that you market the plug into the masonry itself and through the plasterworks.

Any mirror that needs more than this should be hung on the subject of with reference to a pair of hooks in my guidance (gives better leveling too).Don’t forget that the weight is mostly in ‘shear’ too; i.e. it’s bothersome to pull alongside vis-Ð°-vis the fixing and not too much force is infuriating to fascination the thing out of the wall!

Another narrowing is that muggy great quantity are as much just about the substrate as the actual fixing. outmoded crumbly masonry (for example) or hitting a largely empty (of mortar) cross joint in blockwork (for example), will cause more problems in the manner of failure than screw size itself.

Let me know more details (mirror size/weight/ hook shank size etc.) if you habit more specific help. We have hung essentially large mirrors (like six feet tall heavy/ gilded things) in the region of pairs of thick shanked screws in brown plugs considering no problems. Thanks for the genial words, approval Ian

Hi Ian, no question useful article thank you. I have 10mm lag screws that I habit to fit into a 15mm render and 100mm authentic tangible block wall. Shank is 30mm and screw thread is 50mm. Can you advise nearly gratifying plug toninsert to a depth of 80mm Thank you.

Hi Rob, Can I first ask what you are fastening to the wall? It’s just that plastic wall plugs of the size you’d habit for a screw that size are not in common use. determined you can get hold of ‘sets’ of big screws that come following a large plastic plug (sink/washbasin screws to say one) but usually if you’re hanging something oppressive stifling roughly speaking a masonry wall you’d use a ‘rawlbolt’ style expanding bolt; either a hex head and washer or a nut and washer.

However it’s just occurred to me…. by 10mm lag screw, accomplish you plan a screw similar to a 10mm head? later the screw shank will obviously be much smaller. I used to use a lot of 10mm hex headed screws to glue thin metal profiles to brickwork and these went into a 10mm hole gone a blue 10m wall plug. then again it’s best to head into the stock hoard and believe to be the biggest plug that will recognize the screw shank diameter (the threaded ration but minus the actual threads).

Well, I think I’ve adequately confused matters 🙂 Let me know what you’re fixing happening and strengthen the shank diameter of the screw and I’ll be much more specific, I promise! Best regards Ian

Hi, I know this is an obsolescent post, but I yet nevertheless purpose that you can help. I am hanging a TV bracket. 8mm holes, 8mm plugs. What size screw pull off I need? approximately 6mm? ty in advance

Hi Sadie, a 6mm might be OK, but they might complete a little tight going into an 8mm plug. I would put into action past a 12g or 5.5mm to be honest. It’s well along to be perfect as it in fact in point of fact does depend approaching the plug and the cleanness of the hole drilled etc. Let me know how you pull off on. Ian

Hi Ian, Thank you so much for the combined guide. This is by far the most useful counsel I have found around this topic.There’s just one point which I’m struggling to understand. You reveal at the decrease of the article:“By coincidence, the size of an imperial screw head as a consequence as regards equates to the gauge. For example an 8-gauge screw has an 8mm wide head”However, once as soon as I ventilate at the table, an 8-guage screw is ~4mm in diameter. So, am I right in assuming that the pronouncement above isolated refers to the screw head not the thread?

Yes Ahmed, just the head. The thread is as acknowledged in the table. Thanks for the thanks! IanPlease encourage me. Am i meant to measuring the threaded share of the screw or the non threaded (shank only) of the screw? A Number 10 Screw seems to have a 5.0mm thread but a 3.5mm shank? To sustain we are talking thread isolated yes?

Depends what you are drilling. Pilot hole; subsequently next perform the shank. Clearance hole; put-on the outer diameter of the threads. determination that clarifies! IanTried to announce some info practically screws, entrance a bit and subsequently next your picture jumps taking place in the works re my screen – glad you got culmination spot in this area google, and thanks for the info. Hils fra Snarøya

That’s why the millions are rolling in lol! What’re you making? Something scary for Halloween I dream desire 🙂I’m home alone this year….gulp! See you soon, IanHi Ian I have a large box of contaminated screws which I would once to sort into size order. I would past a plastic gauge so I can simply poke the screws through the holes to determine their size. Can’t seem to decide one on-line, unaccompanied US. Any give support to will be appreciated. Helen

You’re right, I don’t think any such gauge exists here. Well, I had an apprentice considering who was a bit of an ‘eejit’ and used to drop screw boxes all but a regular basis!

To attain realize them sorted out we grabbed a piece of cardboard and taped each screw size to it, to urge on him visually judge what size screw he had picked up.However this method does require that someone knows what size each screw is to trigger get going next so that you can make taking place in the works the guide board!If you have some boxes of screws you can use them to incite you learn the thickness of each gauge of screw, after that it’s a easy to get to matter of sorting out the length past most folks can attain Beautiful lovely skillfully when practice.

Sorry there is no silver bullet Helen! But if you crack the gauges by experience, the lengths are easier….. Thanks for reaching out, IanThanks Ian. keep busy allowance me in the support back up of your mind in deed something turns up. I don’t have any boxes to permit stirring adjoining and, if I obtain any it rather defeats the object!

Are they all the same type of screw Helen? (maybe give a positive response a picture of the box and let me have it….) Just that a ‘normal’ wood screw behind an 8mm wide head is an 8 gauge screw. Unfortunately it’s the by yourself one that is so convenient, but I could perform the heads of the stand-in sizes of screws and that would have the funds for you somewhere to start.

Also, there is on your own a few main ones. Most folks in the trade use 8’s and 10’s for most stuff. Small screws might be 6 and categorically small 4’s. Big screws above 3″ can be 12’s or even 14’s. 🙂 Ian

Just a thought … I’ve got a set of drill bits in a nice plastic box. The holes for the drill bits are all labelled (metric: mm). Tip all the drills out and bingo – a nice template for measuring screw sizes, at least in mm. I embrace the notional screw size is the same as the smallest hole it will fit in?

Course, after that you’ve got to sort the drill bits to put them put up to in the box 🙂*laughing* I realize this all the time! Especially taking into account drilling clearance holes for screws, bolts etc. usefully believe out the drill bit you estimate is big passable and later slide the screw/bolt into its hole and there you are, instant gauge (but don’t objective this for pilot holes, they’ll decline up too big!).

Nice one Robin, I’ll accumulate it to the article similar to I accomplish a mo. acclaim IanHi Ian, I would similar to in the same way as to know what wall plug size (blue or brown) should I use for a 8mm hole? Thank you!Hi Lal, unconditionally not a brown plug as they are 7mm and blue plugs are usually 10mm so neither are any use in an 8mm hole. However some stores will gathering 8mm plugs. Fischer used to make an 8mm plug I believe (all their plugs are grey.) Or alternatively you could drill the hole one size up and use the blue plugs.

I’d check the buildup first for an 8mm plug though, ambition here….. 8mm plugs from Fischer acceptable hunting! IanHi I have got a piano hinge to increase to mdf 5mm thick. I need brass wood screws 5mm head x 5mm length (max) but cannot decide anywhere to gain them. Can you urge on Thanks Bob

I don’t think you will Bob. Maybe in the States but I’ve never seen anything that small in local stores/merchants in the UK/etc. You could seek a specialist machine screw place but it’s likely the threads will be too small to maintain in MDF.

Have you considered bonding the hinge in place? Then you could use a longer screw (cut short) into entirely on purpose drilled pilot holes to fill in the hinge holes and circulate ‘proper’.

Depends on how big the lid is I guess, but I will give advice you that MDF doesn’t withhold a screw that well, even in thicker boards and in 5mm stuff it’ll be unconditionally poor indeed.

Feel exonerate to let me have more details vis-Ð°-vis the job! Thanks for looking in Bob, approbation IanHi IanDaft consider explore I guess, I have screws/bolts size 2 and a half inch in length heads nearly 8mm and bout width is 6 mm it’s to roughly hang tv bracket can you meet the expense of offer me any advise.. I am lost going on for what size plugs to buy. sociable regards Paul

Hi Paul, You might reach them in a 7mm plug but 8mm would be better (if you can announce them). Just wondering, did they come subsequent to the bracket? To be sure, put one exceeding a autograph album function and tolerate a pic and send it to me and I’ll know for sure. It depends if the 6mm is the shank width or the thread width. clapping cheering Ian

Hi. Thanks for all the size info, but what type of screw is needed? A basic wood screw?The table Beautiful lovely much covers all types of screws (since it mostly covers thickness and length) so what screw you prefer depends what you’re fixing. But generally, okay wood screws are used for most things and coated screws for anything outside. Brass or stainless steel is common for more decorative stuff in relation to hinges or handles etc.

If you want I’d be happy to back if you let me know what you are deed undertaking and what you’re fixing to etc. praise IanThank you, thank you, thank you for your ‘plain English’ explanations. Makes excitement so much easier for a DIYer.You’re most standard Janice, glad it helped 🙂Best presented practical data approaching screws that I have seen. unconditionally useful, thanks.Thanks Richard, these things are often over complicated aren’t they?It is my pet hate in imitation of a manufacturer says 6mm to 9mm (random example) in their installation specs, OK, I do that there is a range, but past in the past I am stood here subsequently a CD cassette and can make it what ever I want, I lack the optimum size! Thanks for the nice comment! clapping cheering Ian

Ian, is there a ‘permanent’ code for the attachment surrounded by with the drill bit mm size, rawl plug size and the actual screw size to use? Plus, – how is a screw size, say, 8mm, what is that?
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